Colour Analysis is Back in Vogue
What is colour analysis and why should you care?
You may have heard of seasonal colour analysis, and perhaps even taken a stab at what season you think you fall into: Autumn, Winter, Spring or Summer. But did you know that truly understanding your season and corresponding colour palette (a trend from the 80s) is having a big comeback!?
You now fall into one of 12 seasonal categories, not just one of the original four, making the analysis even more granular (more specifically tailored to your complexion, hair colour, eye colour, and contrast value between your skin tone, eye and hair colour), than before.
There are some very talented colour analysts who offer personalised colour consults if you want to delve deeper and get precise results. I will drop some links and recommendations at the end of this article.
After having my colours done (remotely) by a professional (whom I'll link to), I have a much better understanding of colour analysis and will do my best to break it down for you. At first, it can seem like a convoluted 'science', but once you grasp the fundamentals, you should be able to assign yourself into the correct season.
Knowing your season will make you a savvier shopper
When you understand the principles of colour theory and where you fit in on the seasonal colour wheel, it’s like a lightbulb suddenly goes off. If you're fair and 'low-contrast' you'll understand why heavy eyeliner looks too harsh on you and why certain reds make you look sick.
We all fall somewhere on the colour spectrum, and we can all wear most of the colours available (just not in every hue or shade). Knowing what suits you, from your clothing to your makeup and adopting those principles will help you feel your best. The theory of colour harmony exists for a reason and doesn't just apply to artists – we all possess an inherent colour palette from our skin tone to eye colour, and when we honour our natural colour palette, by wearing colours that are harmonious with it – I guarantee you will feel more flattered, and these are the colours that will attract compliments.
This is not to say that you can’t wear what you want – by all means! Let seasonal colour theory serve as a guide to refine what you already own, and a helpful tool when shopping for new items. For example, if you’re looking for a new dress and there are 3-4 colours to choose from, you’ll know with more confidence which colour is going to suit you best according to colour theory, and therefore, a safer bet that it will be flattering on you. This knowledge is especially helpful if you’re an indecisive shopper.
The origins of colour theory
Colour analysis was created in 1981 by stylist and image consultant Carol Jackson. She released a book on the theory of seasonal colour analysis called ‘Colour Me Beautiful,’ which became hugely successful.
Colour analysis is based on the theory that we all come with a ‘pre-installed’ colour palette that is innately harmonious. We all possess a natural hair colour, eye colour, and skin tone that perfectly harmonise.
Seasonal colour analysis applies colour theory to pair and coordinate colours through fashion, hair and makeup with the colours you possess naturally.
Colour theory basics
Let’s try to keep it simple. A colour's hue can be cool or warm (the hue is a colour’s undertone). A blue-based colour is considered cool, a yellow-based colour is warm, and pure red is neutral (stay with me).
Keeping the above in mind, your natural hair and eye colour (your innate physical features) also have a hue that is either cool, warm, or somewhere in the middle (neutral).
Depending on how light or dark your features are, puts you into a ‘season’.
How seasonal colour theory has evolved
Fast-forward to the present day, each of the four seasons is further broken down into subtypes, e.g. soft, light, and deep, which indicates how vivid or muted the colours are in the season you belong to. There are three subtypes per season, giving rise to 12 colour types that you can belong to. Colour experts suggest you are likely safe wearing any colour from your primary season, but the colours in your specific ‘subtype’ will suit you best.
Original four seasons breakdown
Autumn > You are warm, deep, soft
Winter > You are cool, deep, clear
Spring > You are warm, light, clear
Summer > You are cool, light, soft
The addition of the subtypes accounts for not all Summers being equally cool, light and soft – one of those qualities will likely be more dominant. So the new subtypes are designed to represent your most defining colour quality.
A true colour type, e.g., ‘True Summer’ or ‘True Autumn’, will be the coolest or warmest of their respective seasons. The other subtypes will be slightly cool or slightly warm.
We’ve looked at cool and warm – let’s explore the additional four defining qualities.
Coolness > Summer or Winter
Warmth > Spring or Autumn
Lightness > Spring or Summer
Depth > Autumn or Winter
Softness > Summer or Autumn
Clarity > Winter or Spring
“At the very least, determine if your features have a cool, warm or neutral undertone and then choose clothing (and makeup) that has the same undertone”
Knowing your contrast
Along with Undertone (cool or warm), Value (light or deep), and Chroma (soft or clear), there is also CONTRAST to consider.
If the level of ‘lightness’ considers our eye and hair colour, contrast considers our skin tone alongside our hair and eye colour. The difference between your skin, hair and eyes defines your contrast level. You’ll want to mimic your contrast level, such as your undertone, value, and chroma.
How to easily determine your contrast level
A good way to identify your contrast level is to convert a digital photo of yourself to black and white. Another way to instinctively decide your contrast level is to ask yourself if you can pull off a heavy makeup look. Typically, low-contrast people (light summers with fair hair, light eyes, and light skin) are low-contrast and do not suit strong makeup. Conversely, a deep winter can effortlessly carry a strong, bold makeup look.
Figuring out where you fit on the seasonal colour spectrum
Below, I break down the 12 seasonal colour categories and how to determine which season and subcategory you belong to. You can check out the celebrities that fit within each category, and see who you're similar to – this may help you determine where you sit.
Alongside each season, I have included a prescribed colour palette. These are the colours that look BEST on you. They should serve as a helpful reference, and not necessarily as gospel. If you want to determine your most flattering beauty colours (hair and makeup), you can take your seasonal colour type and research further for tips and recommendations.
Summer and friends
Light Summer’s
Typically have…
Hair that is lightly coloured: light to medium ashy blonde or strawberry blonde.
Skin with a neutral undertone that is neither warm nor cool but may have a slight pink tinge.
Eyes that are Blue or Green
Colours you suit: As a Light Summer, your best colors are airy pastels and light shades that are neutral to cool-toned. Think – light, cool and soft.
Your celebrity friends: Diane Kruger, Michelle Pfeiffer, Reece Witherspoon, Jodi Foster, Naomi Watts, Olivia Wilde.
Cool / True Summer’s
Typically have…
Hair that is medium to dark ashy brown
Skin that has a cool undertone and ranges from medium beige to dark brown
Eyes that are blue or grey
Cool seasons will have a cool or bluish undertone to their hair, skin, and eyes. Pastel or light-coloured shades are not flattering on cool-season types; a medium tone of the colours in your season is most appropriate to contrast and complement your undertones.
Don’t be afraid to experiment with slightly darker shades than your palette, but avoid warm-toned shades.
Your celebrity friends: Kate Middleton, Tina Fey, Zendaya Coleman, Allison Williams, Barbara Palvin.
Soft Summer’s
Typically have…
Hair that is medium to dark ashy brown
Skin that is medium beige to dark brown with neutral undertones.
Eyes that are grey, blue, or hazel.
Soft seasons (Summer or Autumn) have low contrast between their hair and skin tone, and will most likely have neutral undertones. The most flattering colours to wear are soft, but not washed out.
Your celebrity friends: Ellen Pompeo, Leona Lewis, Sarah Jessica Parker, Katie Holmes, Rihanna,
Autumn and friends
Soft Autumn’s
Typically have…
Hair that is blonde to medium brown or red with a golden shine.
Skin tone is ivory, olive, or medium brown with warm undertones.
Eyes that are green, hazel, or light brown.
Soft seasons (Summer or Autumn) have low contrast between their hair and skin tone, and will most likely have neutral undertones.
Your celebrity friends: Ana de Armas, Jada Pinkett Smith, Melissa McCarthy, Drew Barrymore, Mariah Carey
Warm / True Autumn’s
Typically have…
Hair that is medium to dark golden brown or warm auburn.
Skin tone is ivory, olive, or medium brown with warm undertones.
Eyes that are green, hazel, or light brown.
Warm seasons (Spring or Autumn) have hair and skin colours with deeper colouring and warm, golden undertones. The colour palettes for warm season types are muted but not dark or pastel, and they will have a warm tone. Both warm seasons share neutral brown bases, but the autumn palette has the medium tones we associate with Autumn, like maroon red or dusty green.
Your celebrity friends: Julianne Moore, Debra Messing, Jenna Fischer, Julia Roberts
Deep Autumn’s
Typically have…
Hair that is medium to dark brown with a golden shine.
Skin that is ivory, olive, or medium to dark brown with warm undertones.
Eyes that are dark blue, deep green, hazel, dark brown, or brown-black.
Deep seasons (Autumn or Winter) have varying skin tones, but their eyes and hair colour are similarly dark. The deepest shades in the winter colour palette are the most flattering shades for the season.
Your celebrity friends: Shay, Mitchell, Freida Pinto, Mindy Kaling, Oprah, Keira Knightley, Sandra Bullock, Natalie Portman
Winter and friends
Deep Winter’s
Typically have…
Hair that is medium to dark brown or black.
Skin tone that is olive or cool blue undertones.
Eyes that are dark brown or black.
Deep seasons (Autumn or Winter) have varying skin tones, but their eyes and hair colour are similarly dark. The deepest shades in the winter colour palette are the most flattering shades for the season.
Your celebrity friends: Lily Collins Simone Ashley, Priyanka Chopra, Lupita Nyong’o, Lucy Liu, and Anne Hathaway
Cool / True Winter’s
Typically have…
Hair that is ashy blonde, ashy light or dark brown, or black with blue undertones.
Skin tone is olive or cool blue undertones.
Eyes are light brown, blue, or grey.
Cool seasons (Summer or Winter) do not depend on contrast (or lack of) contrast between skin/hair/and eye colour; rather, it is the overall undertone of these three things. Cool seasons will have a cool or bluish undertone to their hair, skin, and eyes. Pastel or light-coloured shades are not flattering on cool season types; a medium tone of the colours in your season will be most flattering to contrast and complement your undertone. Don’t be afraid to experiment with slightly darker shades than your palette, but avoid warm-toned shades.
Your celebrity friends: Viola Davis, Lauren Graham, Jamie Lee Curtis, Kristin Davis, Lashana Lynch.
Clear / Bright Winter’s
Typically have…
Hair that is medium to dark brown or black.
Skin tone that is olive or cool blue undertones.
Eyes that are bright green or blue.
Clear seasons (Spring or Winter) have a higher contrast between skin tone, hair, and eye colours. For example, fair skin with dark brown hair and bright blue eyes. However, blondes can also be a “Clear” season type if their hair is a particularly bright blond that is not platinum or ashy. The colour palettes for clear season types are the clearest and least muted. For example, the colours are what we could consider true red or true blue.
Your celebrity friends: Liv Tyler, Courteney Cox, Zooey Deschanel, Alexis Bledel, Angelina Jolie
Spring and friends
Clear Spring’s
Typically have…
Hair that is golden, light to dark brown.
Skin that has a pink undertone and ranges from more ivory than milky white to golden brown.
Eyes that are green, blue, or light brown.
Clear seasons (Spring or Winter) have a higher contrast between skin tone, hair, and eye colours. For example, fair skin with dark brown hair and bright blue eyes. However, blondes can also be a “Clear” season type if their hair is a particularly bright blond that is not platinum or ashy.
Bright neutral-warm crayon colours look best on you.
Your celebrity friends: Vanessa Williams, Emma Stone, Cara Delevingne, Tyra Banks, Beyonce
Warm / True Spring’s
Typically have…
Hair that is strawberry blonde to copper auburn, and light to dark golden brown.
Skin tone that is warm beige, slightly bronzed, may have freckles.
Eyes that are green, blue, hazel, or light brown.
Warm seasons (Spring or Autumn) have hair and skin colours with a deeper colouring and warm, golden undertones. Your eyes may be similarly dark but have a golden spark to the green, brown, or hazel.
The colour palettes for warm season types are muted but not dark or pastel, and they will have a warm tone. Both warm seasons share neutral brown bases, but the spring palette has the warmest tones of bright spring colours.
Your celebrity friends: Taylor Swift, Amy Adams, Mandy Moore, Cameron Diaz, Marcia Cross, Jessica Chastain
Light Spring’s
Typically have…
Hair that is golden blonde, strawberry blonde, or golden brown.
Skin tone that is fair with pink or peachy undertones.
Eyes that are blue, green, hazel, or light brown.
Light seasons (Spring or Summer) have light hair and a light skin tone for their ethnicity. Their eyes will also be light or bright blue, green, or light brown.
The colour palettes for light season types are muted but not dark. Light colours differ from muted in that they are diluted with white and appear more pastel than muted colours, which appear darker than their original colour.
Your celebrity friends: Amanda Seyfried, Gwyneth Paltrow, Scarlett Johansson, Taylor Momsen
"The best color in the whole world is the one that looks good on you."
Want to know more about seasonal colour analysis?
Colour theory experts you should follow: First up is Anuschka Rees, based in Berlin, Germany, who completed my virtual colour consult (I'm a Light Summer if you're wondering) If you're keen to get your own personalised colour analysis, you can do so via Anuschka's website – https://anuschkarees.com/shop/color-guide
If you're interested to see how transformative and impactful colour analysis can be on real people (and celebs), in real time, go and follow Francesca @imageconsultantmaidenhead, it's endlessly fascinating!
Nina,
The Mum Loop Founder
